10.30.2007

Strawberries and cream in a public toilet . . .

That's how one person described the so-called "king of fruits." I can't remember where I first heard about durian, but ever since I did, I've wanted to try it. I've always been a bit of an adventurer when it comes to trying odd or off-the-wall foods. When I was little and my mom would let us get a treat at the grocery store, I always managed to find something completely random to get--like a tiny jar of caviar, or sour pickled Japanese plums. I was in good company, though--my older sister would almost always insist on getting a jar of green olives and my older brother would usually opt for a tin of sardines. We would beg my mom not to let him open them in the car on the way home. The grocery store always brings back good childhood memories. I won't go into our obsession with grocery store gumball machines here, though. Charlotte, can you say rabbit's foot? Anyway, back to my story.



Durian is this fruit that grows in southeast Asia and is considered one of the most exquisite delicacies. The problem with it is that it is a bit on the stinky side. When I say a bit, I mean REALLY, REALLY stinky. Descriptions of it's smell abound. Here's how one travel and food writer described it: "... its odor is best described as pig-@#&*, turpentine and onions, garnished with a gym sock. It can be smelled from yards away. Despite its great local popularity, the raw fruit is forbidden from some establishments such as hotels, subways and airports, including public transportation in Southeast Asia." Appetizing, huh? I guess the thing that intrigued me most is how something that smells so bad could possibly taste so good. How is that possible? So imagine my delight when I found it for sale in a local Asian market.

I think I've mentioned before that I moonlight at this Vietnamese office that's in this huge shopping center called the Hong Kong City Mall. When you step into this place, you truly are in a different country. Most signs for the businesses are in Vietnamese and pretty much everyone is speaking Vietnamese. There are some perks to working there, though--well a perk, which is the Vietnamese sandwich shop across from the dental office. If you've never had one, you need to find your nearest Vietnamese bakery/sandwich shop and pick yourself up one of these. So a couple of weeks ago, I had some time to kill between patients so I took a stroll through the grocery store that is in the Hong Kong City Mall.

Much to my delight, there next to the check out was a big crate of spiky durian. The glaring red sign that said "No Returns" should have been a warning, but no, I pressed on. I thought the price was $4.00 for the whole thing, but when I got to the checkout I quickly learned it was $4.00 per pound, and this is no small fruit. But, I thought, this is a once in a lifetime opportunity to try the "king of fruits," so I shelled out the 20 bucks to buy the stinky thing. The checkout lady again reiterated to me "no returns," as I paid.


I had to ride home with my windows open. At first the smell was almost overpowering--even with the windows open. But strangely enough, after a while it started to smell not-so-bad--almost good. I was getting excited that it was actually going to be good. So I got home and cracked the thing open.

Let's just say that the smell of the unopened fruit didn't even compare to the smell when I got wind of the white, custardy clumps that were inside. It's hard to describe the smell--almost like an over-ripe fruit smell overlaid with maybe a bit of poop and garlic? It truly is something you have to smell for yourself. So I pulled out a couple of the clumps. I brought it in the house and needless to say it sent Audrey and Parker running--they wouldn't try it, let alone even come near it. Even Moe pushed it away without hesitation. So I tasted it.

You would think that since it is a fruit, it would taste, well, fruity. Au contraire mon frère. Nothing fruity AT ALL here. To me, it tasted kind of like really intense roast beef with garlic with again, poop. Not that I know what poop tastes like, but I can imagine. And the consistency made it even worse--like a squishy custard. Funny that those who like it often cite the texture as part of its appeal. I didn't swallow it, it was just too bad.

So along with a really gross taste in my mouth, I was left wondering what is so fundamentally different about the taste buds of people of Northern European descent and those of Southeast Asian descent? How could one group be so enamored by something so repulsive to the other? I guess I'll never figure it out. So if you ever find yourself in Bangkok, or the Hong Kong City Mall, and you get a hankering for some durian, don't say I didn't warn you. Go for the bánh mì thịt nướng instead.

12 comments:

Ginger said...

I have found that foods that are considered "delicacies" are often, well, not that good. Caviar and escargo being two prime examples!

Perhaps, even though it is a delicacy in Asia, the "poop" fruit isn't that yummy to them?

Rachel said...

HAHA! That is so funny! Poop and garlic, eh? I love the NO RETURNS policy. That should've been a big clue.

Anonymous said...

you forgot the part about how you had to dispose of it in a remote location so our garage/trash can/cul de sac didn't smell for 3 days before the trash guys came.

poor pizza place dumpster. probably still reeks. :(

Charlotte said...

I didn't remember that it was a rabbit's foot! You always remember those little details.
That reminds me of when I was an RA and one of the residents complained about the kimchi from their Korean neighbors. When we went to talk to them, they said they didn't understand. They never complained that their American neighbors always cooked microwave popcorn (which smelled awful to them). Weird.

Mumsy said...

So, today I'm saying, "Neal hasn't posted for awhile." (I say that like you live next door, when really I just know your wife through our blogs...) Anyway, I'm totally laughing. I love visiting our local Asian market. Some things I've seen there shouldn't see the light of day--they need to stay at the bottom of the ocean.

I have never heard of this fruit. And now I don't ever want to again.

But, hey, if you ever want to check out another really stinky, squishy fruit that will make your skin crawl, try Caju (Cashew). They grow in South American, particularly Brazil. I want to vomit when I just think of the smell. The stem is where we get the cashew nut.

sara said...

Wow, your talent for reviewing Radiohead albums is exceeded only by your talent for reviewing exotic fruits...

Thanks for the warning! I will truly never try one.

Neal said...

Well, today might have been my last day at the Hong Kong City Mall and sadly, maybe my last bánh mi. I savored every last bit of it. And yes, I washed it down with a Dr. Pepper instead of a durian smoothy.

Anonymous said...

Neal, I love your sense of adventure... Your children will have stories to tell. By the way, now, I live mere blocks from this amazing Italian market with vats of imported olives. A dream! Georgia

Jodie Haney said...

That's awesome! I try new things like that every time I visit the grocery store. I will learn from you on this one. Thanks for sharing!
Props to you on pushing through the smell and actually tasting it...of course, after $20, you didn't have much choice did you?

Anonymous said...

I take it you wont be stuffing the Thanksgiving turkey with that fruit and Im guessing you wont include it in your Christmas fruitcake. You are right, some Vietnamese food is really good. There is a great Vietnamese restaurant here called "Saigon." The owner's motto is, "I didnt travel over 10,000 miles to cook you ordinary food."

Mindy said...

Whenever I hear the word "delicacy" it means "run away".

Jaron said...

Ha! We bought one of these one time, from a store called Global Foods. We thought it looked funky and felt adventurous. We cut it open, and decided that we got one that was "off," and threw it out. I have to admit, your description actually makes me want to get another one. It's sort of the same fascination as when you have BO and keep smelling it to make sure it's really there...